In less than 5 weeks time we will be on our yearly PILGRIMAGE to Costa Rica. The following short story was written after my first trip , …..
Tarpon – The Silver King ( 2007)
After watching Billy Pate’s “Hunt for Giant Tarpon” for the umpteenth time it had to happen. We had to go Tarpon fishing. A good client of ours, Paul Andrews was the man to ask about where and when. Paul has been fishing all over the globe, visiting Angola, Gabon, Florida, Mexico and of course Costa Rica for Tarpon.
The question to Paul was simple, “where would you go to catch BIG and PLENTY Tarpon” .His answer, without hesitation, Costa Rica. This Central American country host some of the globes best Tarpon fishing if you mention Big and Plenty in the same sentence.
Well, the question was asked, the answer given and the first e – mail sent. The reply from Jim Di Berardinis (Owner of the lodge) kept us awake for the next two weeks. According to Jim it was indeed the case, Big and Plenty, in the same place and best of all the same time! It did not take long to get the group of willing fishing buddies together for this first time experience. There was only one problem, we still had a whole year and a half to go. Our trip was only booked for September 2007
According to Jim the best time to fish would be either April , May , September or October – spring or fall in the northern hemisphere. The reason being, during these months the weather and the sea are most likely to be stable. Yes, I know it is hurricane season in the Caribbean during September, but believe me, this far south the hurricanes have little effect.
As mentioned previously, we had a whole year and a half to go, so there was no excuse for not being properly prepared. Rods were built, reels were bought, lines loaded and flies tied.
The line weight rod recommended by Jim started at a 12 weight, but he was more in favor of the big guns 14 -16 weight rods. As far as reels and lines, as long as the drag could handle a Putco Bus on a downhill and take about half a mile of string you should not have a problem. Jim recommended intermediate line, this I will explain a little bit later.
The preferred choice of guns and bullets were as follows:
Two twelve weight rods – Thomas and Thomas H2 912s-4, one big gun – Thomas and Thomas Blue Water 14 -16 weight rod ( Purple Rain ), two back up 12 weight Rhythm rods.
I used the new Ross Momentum 7 reel, what a beauty. (A bit of praise, this reel handled Tarpon, Jacks, Marlin and Sailfish). Loaded on the Ross was one of the new Airflow GT lines, this line has a 60lb test core , it also incorporates the new Ridge Technology from Airflow, like they say in the movies , I like it when a plan comes together.
The most difficult was to find fly patterns for Costa Rican Tarpon. Even though the lodge offer flies as part of the deal, it is not the same catching your first Silver King on a fly you didn’t tie. We googel’d and yahooe’d and eventually with the help from a good client, Zoran, found a forum called: sexyloops .com. To my amazement a few guys fished Costa Rica and they tied their own flies too.
The fishing took place at the mouth of the Sixoala River; this is the south eastern border of Costa Rica and Panama. As you know, fishing in a river mouth you deal with discolored water, thus our flies had to be a bit darker and bushier than normal. We tied various Tarpon Toad’s (purple, black, olive and orange), Deep water Whistlers (Chartreuse grizzle, Orange grizzle), Brush Flies (very big profile that push water) and a few semper flies.
On 30 August 2007, Charlie, Roger, Dion, Hanno, Piers and I boarded flight IB 6312. A year and a half has passed, this was it, the moment of tarpon, sorry truth. Our flight took us to Madrid where we would catch a connecting flight to Juan Santamaria International airport, one of Costa Rica’s two international airports. We would meet Andi, the seventh fisherman in our group at the airport.
After 32 hours traveling we stepped out into a wall of humid, Central American chaos. This was like nothing I have ever experienced, even though it did remind me a bit about home.
Outside the airport Andi was waiting, and our pick up to the Costa Verde inn was ready to go. The package included 8 nights but only 6 fishing days. The 2 extra nights you spend at the Inn either recovering or preparing for the long haul ahead.
Now this might land me in some deep water. (In Afrikaans we do have a better saying). Like Riley’s Bar in Alldays, Ronnie’s Sex Shop on the way to Grahmestown, your local watering hole on a Saturday afternoon, is the famous Blue Marlin Bar of San Jose.
The Blue Marlin is situated in the Del Rey Hotel, a must stop on your fishing Pilgrimage in Costa Rica. Believe me, this is not to be missed. Of course we did go there for the food only …., and boy what amazing steaks they had!
Being fortunate enough to get out of the Blue Marlin before we had to depart, we were on the road to Manzanillo. This was a journey of note. The transfer took place in a proper SA Taxi, but these guys will make our driver sweat. We headed south east to Limon. Limon is the biggest port on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. From Limon we traveled al along the coast through various small villages. It was clear this was the Caribbean, every body was friendly and had a proper Jamaican accent. Peurto Viejo was the second last village we passed through; little did we know what events would take place in this little town.
Arriving in Manzanillo is like arriving at the end of the road, of course in a nice way. We were welcomed by Dolfi (lodge Manager) and his trusted old Nissan Safari. All our luggage was loaded into the Nissan, a few of the Elders too, and of we went to our new home for the next six days.
We were accommodated in the Dolphin research HQ, a really comfortable double story wooden house. There were 4 bedrooms all with en suite bathrooms, a kitchen, a very comfortable dining area and a freezer with lots of ice. Included in the package were 3 daily meals, all local drinks (beer, rum, gin… and soft drinks), very friendly staff and a guide per two anglers.
Now , as mentioned previously, this was our first trip for Tarpon, of course we saw all the videos , DVD’s , read all the books and had the dreams , but nothing could prepare us for what was about to happen.
We had half a gap to go fishing the first afternoon, needles to say, we did. Our boat parings were as follow: Dion and Piers, Charlie and Roger, Hanno and I and Andi all on his own. Arriving at the launch it was a scramble to get in the boats and out to the fish. The boats were 20 foot panga’s with a single 40 hp and a very knowledgeable guide, (these guys tried their best). On arrival at the river mouth I thought this was going to be one of those trips. The water was more orange than the Orange River itself, how we were supposed to hook a fish in this was above me. Well we were here, had all the gear, the least we could do was fish. I think the guide “Chun “saw the despair in our eyes, and very calmly said “Tarpon got, big eyes mon”
The highlands had a lot of rain and all this water came down the river into the big blue. We were busy on our second drift, when I saw a slight disbelieve in Hanno’s eyes. Could this be? He set the hook and all hell broke lose. Like a missile launched from a submarine this silver monster fired out the orange water. This was it! The Tarpon cleared the water at least half a dozen times before taking off to Panama. Hanno was giving this fish all he had. After a good twenty minutes the fish came to the boat for the first time. The moment it saw the boat it took off again, taking about 150 meters of string this time. The words of Billy Pate rang in my head “these fish think they are going to die “this was very visible in the way it fought. Forty minutes later the fish was next to the boat and ready to land, Chun grabbed the leader and very carefully pulled the monster closer to the boat. We were eye to eye with the silver king at last. Just as Chun griped the fish on the lower jaw the tarpon, with one final flick of its massive tail, launched itself out of the water and cut the 80lb leader. It was one of that slow motion Nooooo’s, followed by a few short Afrikaans three letter words as the tarpon slipped away into the orange water. Well, this was no walk in the park.
That night at the dinner table we learned Piers also hooked a Tarpon, but the fish threw the fly on the first jump. With Hanno giving a second to second run down of his tussle with the giant the scene was set for a unbelievable 5 days to come.
A typical day at the lodge would be Coffee and Toast at about 05:30, we would meet the boats at 06:30 then travel for about half an hour to the fishing grounds. We would have breakfast on the boat and be back at the lodge for lunch at 12:30. After a nice siesta we would be fishing again at 15:00 until dark.
After the rude awakening of the previous afternoon all the spare tackle went with in the boat, just in case. The technique used to fish the river mouth consists of one long drift from the mouth out to the sea. We would cast and retrieve our lines but this turned into hard work and our flies were more out of the water than in.
I was on Andi’s boat for the morning session when Delroy , his guide, recommended we keep our lines in the water and only give some action to the fly by retrieving only about half a meter and leave the line to be pulled out into the current again. This for sure was not the most exciting way of fishing but this way your fly covered the water the complete drift. After a few drifts we decided to go and fish a different spot. This was also a river mouth but a much smaller river than the Sixoala. While fishing at the Gandoca mouth we saw some Tarpon rolling, just out of casting distance, this kept us going for the rest of the morning. Eventually we decided lines up; Andi chucked the rod underneath his arm and started a proper Mozambique double handed retrieve. I was looking at the jungle behind us when I saw a silver flash behind the boat. I could hear the reel playing our kind of music even before I could shout Tarpon. The fish ate his fly on the double hand retrieve and was busy pulling string at a rate of knots. Andi fought the fish like a pro, (according to him) and boated the second Tarpon of the trip.
The afternoon we decided to fish together again, this is when I found my comfort zone while Tarpon fishing. Delroys boat had a really nice platform on the nose, a little bit small for standing on, but ideal to use as a seat. With my feet over the gunnels and my but on a life jacket I could not be bothered if the Bulls came stone last in the Currie Cup. While enjoying my throne, I felt a soft, tap – tap, half asleep I set the hook and out came the Tarpon. When I opened my eyes again I was on the second step of the boat palming the Ross Momentum. This fish was leaving. I saw the fly line disappear, then my 50m mark on the backing and then my “start the motor “mark. Through all the shouting and screaming Delroy managed to get the boat going and we quickly picked up on the backing. This fish kept me busy for a good forty minutes before I had it next to the boat. Lucky for me Andi had this all worked out, he would grab the tail and Delroy the lip; they would lift the Tarpon aboard, take photos, and then release the fish again. Well, this was exactly what they did. With Swiss precision they lifted a 90lb tarpon clear out the water, I was told, sit down and smile, the fish was lifted again and put back to sea, all in less than 30 second flat.
Getting back to Peurto Viejo, Friday nights are Reggae Nights in Peurto Viejo. We were enjoying a few Imperial’s ( the local version of Castel ) in the beach bar when out of the blue , about , 20 custom police showed up. In about 10 seconds we were the only people left in the bar , except for the barman of course. Now, if you travel on the Caribbean side you are suppose to keep your passport on you all the time. This we only found out later off course. The we I talk about is Andi and myself. When the police asked for pass ports Piers, Hanno and Dion had no problem, they had it on them. As for me and Andi, a completely different story. No Passport, no Go .We were asked to get in the van , when we started to speak Afrikaans these guys got really upset , but this is a story all on its own. Thanks’ to Hanno, who went back to the lodge, we only spend 3 hours in jail.
Back to the fishing, we just started our fishing our fourth session when Piers hooked into a fish. The Tarpon cleared the water half a dozen times then took off. Little did Piers and Dion know this was going to be an hour and thirty minute fight. After the battle the fish was next to the boat and then for the first time a really nasty obstacle reared its head. HOW are we supposed to get a fish of this size into the boat? There is also another kink to this fishy tale, but you have to ask Piers himself, give him a ring at Laxtons, it will be difficult to stop him talking. Witnessing the stamina and raw power of Piers’s tarpon the previous day Dion decided to bring out the big gun. Dion hooked into a nice fish of about 80lb, and within half an hour he boated the fish, his mega Loomis did him proud.
The following morning I fished with Dion on Chun’s boat, we both had our big sticks out. Drifting on the northern side of the mouth Dion hooked into good Tarpon. At first the Tarpon did not do much. Sure it was jumping all over the place, but it did not pull miles of backing from his Tibor Gulfstream. We were having a casual discussion of how to land this fish when we saw the size of the thing. The moment the Tarpon saw the boat he made a “run “for Panama. Dion had the fish next to the boat several times but every time we had a re-run of the previous time. After abut the seventh visit to the boat the fish came in side ways, Chun nodded, this was the moment of truth. Slowly I pulled the Tarpon closer to the boat, stuck my hand into its prehistoric mouth, and then, I could not grip it. I literary could not get my grip wide enough to cover the lower jaw of this monster. There we were ,a massive Tarpon and no way to get it on the boat. What a moment to share with a long time fishing buddy, thanks Dion.
On Charlie and Rogers’s boat they had another problem. Between the two of them they JUMPED the most Tarpon, but they could not hold on to the fish. After day three Charlie and Roger were known as the TEN SECOND boys. They could not keep a fish on for more than ten seconds. After dinner we would discuss the days fishing, various techniques used, including setting the hook. At this point a full demonstration would take place, but to no avail. It had to wait until the third last session for this demo to find its place in the technique folder of the Ten Second boys.
Charlie and Roger’s boat had a 100hp motor; this made them the fastest boat in the fleet. The third last session we were heading out as usual, by the time we arrived the ten second boys were busy with their second drift, Carlos, their guide and skipper decided to fish on the south side of the mouth, about half way through the drift Charlie hooked into a monster MOO MOO (Tarpon). Later Roger would demonstrate how Charlie set the hook, to say the least, Billy Pate would be proud. This fish did not clear the water in spectacular aerial displays, but only came half way out and then splashed back into the murky water. The first time it came out Charlie realized this was no baby Tarpon; he fought the monster for 58 minutes, giving it all he could, and then handed the rod over to Roger. Now, this is most probably the biggest gesture in faith I witnessed in a long time. Roger had the fish next to the boat after another 27 minutes, Carlos, being nearly seven foot tall, grabbed the fish and lifted it with one movement into the boat. Only then the guys realized what they managed to accomplish. This fish measured 2.03m, estimated weight 200lb’s plus. To put this in perspective, the world record Tarpon is a mere 2 lb’s heavier! Needles to say, the festivities carried on until the early hours the next morning.
We were coming to the end of one of the most rewarding fishing experiences we ever had. The sheer number of fish hooked ( 69 ) , landed only 17 , the raw power on the end of your fly rod , the glint in a guides eye when he knew he did well. All of this and more is what we experienced on a Tarpon trip of a lifetime. I also have to mention we caught about thirty Yellow Wing Jacks ( Yellow fin Kings) , the biggest being 85cm. Again, thanks to Jim, Dolfi, and all our guides and off course our lovely cook.
We will definitely be back, with our passports, and this time we will take only Big Guns.
Author :Ricko Cronje
